Squash
stats/requirements at a glance
Ease of Raising:
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2/5 - Weekly check up
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Water:
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4/5 - Daily
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Sun:
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5/5 - Full sun, no shade
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Training:
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2-4/5
– Minimal (Zucchini) to Moderate (Squash), dead or
damages leaves to trellis training
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Fertilise/Feeding:
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3/5 – Moderate (monthly)
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Time to Harvest:
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2-5/5 – Soon
(Zucchini) to end of summer (winter squash), 1-4 months
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Frost Hardiness:
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1/4 –
Very Tender (can’t take light frost)
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Uses
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Culinary, Pollinator attractor
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Most Problematic Nemesis:
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Powdery Mildew
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Container Plant:
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Rather not
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Squash Vine
Cucurbita moschata |
Quick intro
The terms squash, pumpkin and marrow are often confusing and
applied indiscriminately. From what I could decipher, squash are applied to
both summer and winter varieties. This again can be misleading, summer and
winter squash are both grown during the summer months, the only distinction is
that summer squash cannot keep for too long (zucchini, patty pans AKA soft skin
varieties ect.) and winter squashes after preparation can be stored throughout
the winter (hubbard, butternut, pumpkins AKA hard skin varieties). Squash are a
pleasure to grow and are likely favourites at the table whether it is as soup,
steamed, roasted or served with syrup. The only problem is that they take up a
lot of space in the garden and are hounded by powdery mildew - grrr!...
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Cucurbita pepo
Marrow |
History
The oldest archaeological remains of squash cultivation are
from Mexico (7000-5500BC) and formed part of the important pre-Columbian
‘Three-sister’ diet complex. This consisted of maize, beans and squash, where
the maize stalk provides support for the beans and shade for the squash. The
squash limited provided ground cover to limit weeds and water loss from the
soil, whereas beans (being legumes) provide nitrogen to the maize and squash.
These ancient cultivars are now distributed around the world as they are hardier
than other squash species and are cultivated in cooler climates, such as the
United Kingdom and northern Europe.
Science Stuff
Squash belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family, which contains
approximately 25 species, although only a few are cultivated plants. These
belong to several species,
Cucurbita (the
genus, abbreviated with the first letter),
C.
pepo,
C. maxima,
C. moschata,
C. mixta and
C. ficifolia
– and then you get several varieties under each species, such as
C. pepo var
. pepo and
C. pepo var.
melopepo. Now on with the naming game…
Pumpkins are sometimes classified as winter squash or food used for animal
fodder. So to solve all the confusion my very informative
“The complete guide to Saving Seeds” book has provided both illustrations and comprehensive table. Here is a remade image and table of the species differences:
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Fruit stems help to identify the species in question.
Cucurbita maxima has a soft and rounded fruit stem that seems to be inserted into the fruit.
Cucurbita pepo have hard and prickly fruit stems that are enlarged at the point of attachment.
Cucurbita moschata are flattened at the point of attachment. |
C. maxima (Cmax)
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C. pepo (Cpep)
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C. moschata (Cmos)
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Can cross-pollinate with Cmax & Cmos
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Can cross-pollinate with Cmos and Cpep
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Can cross-pollinate with Cmax, Cmos and Cpep
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Arikara
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Acorn
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Butternut
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Banana
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Cocozzelle
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Dickson Field
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Boston marrow
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Crookneck
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Kentuchy
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Buttercup
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‘Pumpkin’ cultivar
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Long Island Cheese
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Hubbard
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Scallop/Patty Pan
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Calabaza
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Jarrahdale
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Straighneck
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Trombocino
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Kaboscha
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Zucchini/Marrow
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Seminole
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Lakota
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Gourds
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Neck
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Turbans
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Gem/Rolet
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Long of Naples
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Flat white boer
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Spaghetti
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Giromon
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I hope this will clarify some issues surrounding the naming
problem. An additional terminology issue is that of Zucchini, Courgette and
Marrow. Zucchini and courgette refer to the smaller
C. pepo summer squash (I usually stick to the ones that
look like fingers and patties), whereas marrow refers to the mature fruit of a
C. pepo plant (25-30cm long!).
I think that pretty much covers it.
Growing Squash
Squash are delightful, especially the zucchinis as they are
prolific and start to produce fruits within two months of planting. Their seeds
germinate within 5 days given the soil is warm enough (21-35oC,
70-95oF), which is usually after the first frost. If you live in an
area with a short summer, start seedlings indoors 2-3 weeks before it should be
warm enough and plant out once the seedlings have 3-4 leaves.
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Cucurbita species
Squash seedlings |
Now I have never concerned myself with spacing, as these
plants do what they will. The bush varieties (patties and zucchinis) remain in a
roughly 60cm circumference area, but later on they do have longer stems, as the
zucchinis are produced on the new stem and so they start to move outside this area.
Bush varieties have large leaves that take up a lot of space, but provide
shelter to vegetables below and they retain soil moisture (carrots particularly
like this arrangement
J). Trailing varieties (these are hubbards, butternut,
crooknecks, larger pumpkins) creep along as they please. Hubbard and pumpkins
have large leaves but they are spread along the creeping vine and so do not
take up much space in that sense, but the vine can creep through the entire
garden soon enough – and that takes up more space that your bush varieties.
I do not restrict zucchinis on the amount of fruits they
carry, since they develop and set within a week making a constant rotation of
crops. The larger trailing varieties I limit to 8 fruits (for smaller fruits,
such as gems, butternuts, crooknecks) and 3-5 fruits (for medium to large
fruits, hubbard and pumpkins). This ensures that the fruit sets properly and
the seed cavity develops (important for seed saving). One must also remember
that the trailing varieties have to ‘pump’ nutrients all the way along the vine
to the developing fruit, so ones further away will get the most nutrients. The amount of
nutrients the closer fruits will get is less, due to the gradient in which
the plant supplies nutrients, so more nutrients at the tip of the growing shoot
(and fruits) to less nutrients closer to the base of the plant where the root
are located. This is why the amount of fruits needs to be limited, since the
plant continues producing fruit at the tip, these will steal nutrients and the
others will not get enough to develop properly. So to prevent more fruit from
forming simply pinch off the growing tip, this will ‘force’ nutrients to the
other fruits. Be vigilant of new shoots developing and pinch these off as well,
it can be quite a battle to keep a plant restricted as they want to produce as
many fruits as possible, so new shoots will spring up all along the length of
the vine.
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Hubbard
Cucurbita maxima |
The some squash varieties, such as butternut, large crooknecks,
hubbard and pumpkin, require support for fruits. Since fruits are in contact with
the soil and may rot. Fruits are supported in a variety of ways, I am still trying
to find the best for me, such as straw, black plastic bags and carton. Also the
side in contact with the ground will become yellow and might be a bit harder
than the rest of the fruit, this is a natural process of fruit development and
the fruit is safe to eat J.
I have tried planting the squash in containers, but it did not work out so great, since the plants were fairly small and did not carry fruits well. One of my reference books "
Pot it Grow it Eat it" manages to get it right, so give it a try!
J
Other Squash Tips
There are no squash varieties resistant to powdery mildew.
This fungus grows on the top of the leaves and can soon cover an entire squash
plant. Some books say that this doesn’t impact on fruit production, but I do
not believe this as the fungus will sap nutrients from the plant, which will
decrease fruit and growth potential. To limit the onset of powdery mildew
always water squash at the base of the plant on the ground, do not water on the
leaves as this increases the growth and spread of mildew. Once mildew starts,
remove badly infected leaves. You can spray the mildew with an environmentally
friendly spray I developed, under
Pest Control.
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Cucurbita species
Powdery Mildew |
On that note, me and a friend were discussing that it would
be awesome if you could breed squash with waxy cuticles (layer surrounding the
outside of the leaf) similar to that of Brassicas (the cabbage family) so that
water simply trickles off the leaf and mildew will have a harder time growing
on the squash J.
But this has other physiological implications, especially when concerned with
energy required to grow the wax layer, hence fruit production is decreased J...
Harvesting &
Storing
OK it is quite a process for harvesting and storing squash.
Zucchinis are harvested when the fruit is 10-15cm, they can keep for about 5
days in the fridge (in a closed container that doesn’t let the fridge dehydrate
the fruit). Fruits are cut from squash and 5cm of the stem is left on the
fruit. This prevents the fruit from dehydrating and prevents infection of the
fruit by fungi or bacteria. Marrows are 25-20cm long and can be store for
longer periods of time as the fruit has matured. The rule for marrow harvesting
is that if your thumbnail goes into the skin easily they are ready. Marrows can
be stored for a few months in an airy frost free location. We are investigating
whether marrows will still be edible after freezing, we grill them in a little
oil before they go into the freezer.
Winter squash (hard rinds) are harvested and stored
differently and include all squash except zucchini and patty pans. So these are
ripe when the fruit skin is pale, dry, uniform in colour and the rind cannot be
puncture by thumbnails (brown and dry stems for gourds – bicoloured squash, a
more decorative ornamental squash). Then cut the fruit from the stem, leaving
3-6 inches (8-16cm) of the stem for pumpkins and no more than 1 inch (3cm) for
hubbard to prevent damage to other squash during storage. Wash the fruit with
soapy water and rinse with bleach to remove pathogens (1 part of bleach to 10
part water, so 1ml bleach to 10ml water). Make sure the fruits are dried
properly before curing. So most pumpkins, except butternut, hubbard and acron
varieties do not need to be cured. Pumpkins require curing. Curing pumpkins
involved leaving them in the sun for a week (7-10 days) after harvesting. This
allows the skin to harden and the fruit to fully ripen. Cured pumpkins can be
stored cool dry place for 2-3 months. Store fruits on wooden pallets and do not
let them touch one another, this prevents rot. For more info check out:
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/hortihints/0410c.html
NB: Remember to check on stored fruit regularly and remove
any rotten fruits.
Seed Collection &
Storage
Squash have unisexual flowers, meaning male and female
reproductive organs are borne in separate flowers. Female flowers carry small
immature fruit at the back of the flower and need to be pollinated to set
fruit. Male flowers do not carry fruits. Squash are pollinated by insects and
this can be problematic if you pollinators are more interested in the basil
plant and ignores everything else! But luckily squash are easy to pollinate
J.
I do this with a soft (horse-hair) brush that is similar to a bees’ body. You
can use a feather as well or simply rub the anther (male part) over the stigma
(female part). I find you get better pollination, pollen use and distribution
when using a brush. Simply pick a male flower, strip the petals and get some
pollen (yellow) onto your brush. Strip the petals from the female flower
(careful not to remove the flower completely) and make sure you brush all the stigmas (3-4
lobed shaped structures). Technically you only need to get one pollen grain on
one stigma, so brushing the all the stigmas with pollen will ensure
pollination.
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Squash male and female flowers
Cucurbita pepo |
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Squash male flower (anther)
Cucurbita pepo |
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Squash female flower (stigma)
Cucurbita pepo |
Now, squash are sometimes selfish to produce male flowers
when females are around. So, when the squash just start growing, they produce
mostly male flowers – this is less energy expensive than producing female
flower as they can disperse pollen (and genes J) by male flowers
hoping that there are already plants with female flowers around. But if the
male flowers aren’t used (not sure how the plant will detect this stimuli) they
will start making lots of female flowers and fewer male flowers (since one male
flower can pollinate multiple female flowers). So then you get lots of females
waiting to be pollinated with insufficient or no males at the same time. But do
not fear! As squash are promiscuous and can easily accept pollen from different
species in the same family. This goes with the table I showed earlier. So you
can use zucchini (Caserta or patty pan, as they have lots of male flowers with
lots of pollen) to pollinate (and fertilise) pumpkin or butternut or hubbard…
female flowers. The only thing is that you cannot harvest seeds from these
fruits as the fruit will either be parthenocarpic (meaning the fruit does not
contain seeds) or the seeds will be sterile (this is not the case for tomatoes! J). So to save seeds; select a fruit to pollinate with the correct pollen and close
the female flower with twine (tie up the petals) to indicate that this is the
one meant for seeds. You can also use cucumber pollen to pollinate squash
(although, cucumbers do not produce lots of male flowers).
To harvest seeds pollinate the female flowers and leave the
fruit to become botanically ripe (the fruit goes past its consumption point).
This is necessary to allow the seeds to develop fully and become viable. Fruits
are left to rot down or become calabash. Seeds can be removed and washed.
Viable seeds will sink. Seeds stored in glass will last for up to 5 years.
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Botanically ripe gem squash (rolet squash)
Cucurbita pepo |
My Squash
I have three varieties of zucchini, a long green one, long striped one and a patty pan (scallop).
The striped one is a Mayford variety and other two are Starke Ayres.
The Mayford becomes quite larger than the Starke. All others are Starke
varieties which include, Butternut, gem squash and Boer Pumpkin (Afrikaaner
variety of South Africa J, basically translates to Farmer’s Pumpkin).
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| Pumpkin Patch |
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